Where to shoot a bayed bear??

treeing walkers · Post by **treeing walkers** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:21 pm

Need to put see thru scope rings on your rifle. so that way when you get in close you have your iron sights to work with and a scope for the further shots. I would always shoot the head when bayed up, for the simple reason that the bear or ?? needs to die about instant so it can not hurt any dogs after it is shot. Just take your time and know your rifle and what you and it is capable of doing and aim for the head with a heavy round and put it down fast and humanely with minimal damage to the dogs. Always think of the safety of your dogs first then a humane way to put what ever you are huntin down fast.

Bearkiller · Post by **Bearkiller** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:13 pm

I hunted with that configuration, once. You can lose your quarry in the rings just as easy as with a scope. I don't recommend a scope at all. Especially in coastal areas like washington. Keep it light and keep it accurate. the best way to that is with iron sights.

HoundDawg · Post by **HoundDawg** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:26 pm

Some good advice here but amigo, I'm going to give you the BEST advice you're gonna get.

The best place to shoot a bayed up bear? About ten yards off the road!!

That is if he don't cooperate and you can't shoot him right in the road!

Bearkiller · Post by **Bearkiller** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:29 pm

If you're lucky enough to get the bear to present itself there. Also keep in mind in alot of states its illegal to shoot on, from, across or with in a certain distance of a road. Especially on public land. The best advice you got was based on what the bear wants not on what reality always is. ;-)

arachyd · Post by **arachyd** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:47 pm

This is a good topic. I'm learning a lot. Someday when NJ stops playing around with bear season and there is hope of hunting them with hounds it will come in very handy.

KTMracer · Post by **KTMracer** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 2:33 am

Great post Ankle, the only thing I disagree with a little bit is a bear with a busted snout can go for a long ways after. A couple years ago we had one that just wouldn't tree, the shooter ran in, missed the head, and put a .44 through the snout. He ran for another four hours before he could get close enough to put one more above the right eye. Not saying that's the norm, but it can happen.

HoundDawg · Post by **HoundDawg** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:58 pm

Bearkiller you said "The best advice you got was based on what the bear wants not on what reality always is."

Reality? Dude, you must not spend much time on any of these hunting forums if you are mentioning the word "reality"...

I think I've probably read about everything you can imagine on these hunting forums, but the word "reality" certainly never crossed my mind as I was reading any of it.

But good point about not being able to legally shoot across a road. I'm actually a huge proponent of gun safety and when I have road rage on the freeway, I ALWAYS get behind the other vehicle before opening fire.

It just chaps my hide to see people shooting at each other across lanes. Don't these idiots realize they could kill someone?

Bearkiller · Post by **Bearkiller** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 2:05 pm

Hey I was just noting that alot of people hunt in places where there aren't alot of roads and that bears won't always bay up next to one. However I did state that given the oportunity and if its legal. Thats my choice of where to shoot a bear. I agree that reality is somewhat lacking on some of these sites. I know some pretty poor houndsmen who are experts on these sites. ;-)

Ankle Express · Post by **Ankle Express** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:04 pm

If the bear goes down or falls out the dogs are going to pile on and it needs to be lights out dead. Thats why I disagree w/ really anything but a head shot. Shoulders and chest/brisket will leave the chompers going on a slowed up bear. This is usually when they get a dog up under them and its not pretty. A bear is hard to kill w/ dog/s under it. The reason I'm keen on a side head shot is I have seen the pallet of their mouth deflect a bullet as big as a .32 win. My buddy swore he had head shot a big sow on the ground charging him and the barrel was point blank. When she treed and was killed all he had done was knock out an upper canine. I didn't mean that snout shots made them all easy but most hit bad enough won't go far till they just down and start swatting. I know if they are going to run off WOUNDED I'm a little more comfortable w/ knowing their bottom jaw is swinging. I've never shot a dog or come close but I have created and watched a few create some vet bills. What seperates the hounddoggers from real bear hunters is what YOU do after YOU'VE made a good deal go bad w/ a bad shot. This is also a good way to get some experience, fixing someone elses chicken shit mistakes. BTW a thread like this which is very real in bear hunting should not be accessible to bunny huggers and tree dwellers.JMO

KTMracer · Post by **KTMracer** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 1:52 am

I think I undertand what you were meaning now Ankle, I misunderstood it. I thought you were meaning that with a snout shot they will be down and dead or unable to move. My mistake, I see what you mean about the bottom jaw swinging. The one I was refereing to went straight through the upper snout and he kept on going. His chompers were working, but I bet it was a bit sore for him to clamp down. :lol:

Once again some good points you made Ankle.

I agree with you also, this thread should definately be blocked from the public.

msgfarleyret · Post by **msgfarleyret** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:23 am

knowjesus The first thing I would like to know is what are you shooting The 30-06 you talked about???? Pistol / rifle and what calabur??? Scope at close range get rid of it JMO!! Hand gun throw it away JMO!!! I know I will catch allot of Flack over that one LOL!!! I have been on every type of bear in north America except a polar bear because thats not legal. Black bear, grizzly, brown bear, yes I know Grizzlies and brown bear have the same genetics just different food sorces. and yes I know there are sub speicies of the black bear. First and foremost you have to break them down. A head shot is not a good option unless you know for sure with a caliabur that will not deflect, Neck shot will always do the job if you know were to place the round at. Frount shoulder shot with a large calaber will also do the job, but thats when you are not sure of a neck shot and hitting the vertabree JMO. Give me a 30-06 for Blackbear or an 300 WBY / 338 for grizz or Brown Bear and I am a happy camper. Some people will tell you this is over kill and I agree its all about Shot placement. If you want to Know why I would never, ever recomend a pistol just ask me what happens when someone used a 454 Cusual on a Grizz????

Josh Kunde · Post by **Josh Kunde** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:10 am

Bearhunter wrote:Best thing to do/remember is if you can and have the guts on a bayed bear is put the barrel right behind the ear.

this may sound kinda funny but if you dont have the guts to do this my 63 year old grnadma has more guts that you lol. and she used a 22 long rifle!
Josh

catkidd · Post by **catkidd** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:52 pm

good reading

southwestwalkers · Post by **southwestwalkers** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 4:40 pm

no doubt on this one.... the head is a moving target Ill break his shoulder with the 30 30 iron sight w/ a 170gr pill.... I actually don't care where he is Im breaking his shoulder! I don't need a bear that can still get up and charge me or the hounds..

Robb

Dogger · Post by **Dogger** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:31 pm

KnowJesus, I don't know if I would take your scope off cause I've had a lot of bears run all day and its a lot easier to shoot one close with a scope than to shoot one running without one. I know that when a shot is fired most dogs blow there thinking caps and go into fight mode so don't miss cause that will be kinda bad. . .